Irani Cafes you must visit in Mumbai: Irani cafes have always been an important part of Mumbai’s culinary history. Many of these have faded away amid the growing presence of modern eateries mushrooming in the city. Today only a handful of Irani Cafes remain; the ones that have withstood testing times. These cafés haven’t changed a bit and still hold that nostalgic charm with their age-old interiors, high ceilings, chattering tables, list of do’s and don’ts chalked onto a blackboard along with personal artefacts adorning the place and the ever delicious Parsi Food. The charm of an Irani café is simply irresistible.
Irani Cafes in Mumbai:
You haven’t lived in Mumbai if you haven’t visited any of these iconic Irani cafes.
Irani cafes are the soul of culinary delicacies such as Mutton Pattice, Berry Pulao, Salli Boti, Edu, Bun Maska, Shrewsberry biscuits and the infamous Irani chai. Here are some of the best Irani cafes that I have visited and enjoyed in Mumbai:
B Merwan & Co:
This century old Irani Café shares the nostalgia of a bygone era. Located outside Grant Road station, B Merwan is famous for its Mawa cake which flies off the shelves. Mawa Cake and Irani Chai are irreplaceable and loved by most of the patrons here.
Must try: Mawa Cake, Omelette Pav
Add: Opposite, Grant Road East, Bharat Nagar, Grant Road, Mumbai,
Britannia & Co Restaurant:
Straight out of a retro Bollywood film, the evergreen Britannia & Co. retains its original vintage charm. Open only for lunch from Monday to Saturdays, the prices may seem steep, but the meal is stellar. Do not miss the lip-smacking Berry Pulao; Pilau rice topped with barberries, roasted cashews and crunchy caramelized onions served in an aluminium plate. Brittania & Co. has lived gloriously over the decades but lost a part of itself when their humble owner, Late Mr. Boman Kohinoor, passed away last year. He would visit each table and passionately shares tales of his interaction with Prince William and Kate Middleton.
Must Try: Berry Pulao, Mutton Pattice, Salli Boti
Add: Wakefield House, Ballard Estate, Fort,
Jimmy Boy:
Earlier known as Café India, Jimmy boy is the best maintained of all the Irani cafes in Mumbai. This classic haunt is famous for its Kheema Pav – glistening minced lamb perfectly cooked with a generous amount of spices, and served with soft, in house made Pav. Try it to believe it.
Must try: Bun Maska, Dhansak
Add: Bank Street, Near Horniman Circle, Fort,
Yazdani Bakery:
Situated in the by-lanes of Fort, the rustic exteriors of Yazdani Bakery make it one of the most Instagrammed Irani Cafés in town. The café gets its name from a region in Iran: Yazd. The air here smells of freshly baked goodies including rum cakes during Christmas. Yazdani is one of those exceptional places that has to be on your list of must visit places during your Parsi food tour.
Must try: Brun Maska, Plum cakes, Ginger cookies
Add: Kandewadi, Charni Road East, Girgaon
Café Irani Chaii:
Staying in the suburbs and too lazy to travel to far off places for Irani food, then head over to Café Irani Chaii. Located in Mahim, they begin as early as 7am. And early birds here love a good Irani Chai and Bun Maska, a clear crowd favorite. The décor is pretty and the nostalgic candies in glass jars lying on the counter lends its own charm. While you are here, you can pet a few furry felines as they purr at you to get your attention.
Must try: Mutton Kheem and Cutlets
Add: Rosary Building, Mia Mohd Chhotani Rd, Mahim
SodaBottlerOpenerWala :
SodaBottleOpenerWala is a casual dining café paying homage to the heritage cafes of Mumbai. The ambience is clearly inspired by Irani cafes: chequered table cloths, retro music, aluminium wares and pretty flooring. They even have the sweet Phantom cigarettes, hard boiled candies and Kismi toffees lined up in thick glass jars. Other than the customary Irani Chai, Bun maska & Nan Khatai, there are a few other fabulous delicacies on the menu. Egg Kejriwal, an egg & mushroom preparation on crunchy toasts is a definite must try. Since this is a modern take on the Irani heritage, SBOW is the only Parsi themed café to step outside tradition and serve alcoholic concoctions.
Must try: Egg Kejriwal, Berry Pulao, Mutton Dhansak and Pheteli Coffee
Add: Multiple Outlets across the city
Kyani & Co:
The oldest Irani café surviving the foodscape in Mumbai is Kyani & Co. It is famed for its high ceiling where the end of a broom hasn’t reached in years, it’s pretty mosaic flooring that’s been chipped artfully as the years rolled by, and wooden furniture as old as its history. Stepping into Kyani & Co feels just like setting foot onto the set of a vintage Black and white movie. Time just seems to halt & everything around is so simple yet meaningful. Just like other old school cafes, this one is a no-nonsense café; no time pass allowed here. Most people come here for breakfast, cakes and confectioneries. Bun Maska, Kheema, Eggless Mawa Cake & of course, Irani Chai are some of the must haves.
Must try: Kheema Par Eidu & Bun Maska
Add: Jermahal Estate, Tak Wadi, Marine Lines
Sassanian:
Sassanian is a 103-year-old Irani Café located in Marine Lines near Dhobi Talao. Divided in two sections: Bakery and Café, Sassanian makes fresh breads, pavs, cookies and an assortment of other baked goodies. The glass counters are filled with a variety of biscuits and cookies.
Bun Maska, Kheema Pav, Irani chai and Shrewsberry biscuits are all pocket friendly making it a great breakfast place. Pallonji’s Raspberry soda here costs a mere Rs 20 which is priced quite exorbitantly at some of the other cafes.
Must try: Wine cookies and Mawa Cakes
Add: Metro, 98, Marine View, 1st Marine St, Cross Road, Dhobi Talao,
I have tried to chronicle some of the best and probably last remaining Irani cafes Mumbai here.
The cafes mentioned above are not placed in any order/ rank. The purpose of this blog is a genuine attempt at showcasing Iranian culture and hoping to inspire people to experience a culinary heritage before the sands of time engulf it.
As always, please share your individual experience and let me know if I need to visit a café that I have not mentioned here. Which of these Irani Cafes in Mumbai have you visited?
Until then,
TheWickedSoul
I was in Mumbai for weekend last year in June and planned to visit these cafes. Unfortunately, that day the market was shut. I guess that’s one of the reasons why I should revisit Mumbai.